- 69.6 miles
- 7 hours 23 minutes
- 9.4 mph average speed
- 9-16 mph wind
We chose to keep the boat in Crisfield and travel by ferry to visit Smith Island and Tangier Island.
Smith Island was settled by the British in the 1600’s. It is a three-by-five mile island chain consisting of three villages and has a population of about 200 people, most of whom make their living by crabbing or oystering. It is the only inhabited island in Maryland that is accessible only by boat. Unfortunately, the island is shrinking due to rising seas eroding the island and it is projected to be completely submerged by 2100.
Smith Island is known for their famous Smith Island Cakes which the women have been making since the 1800’s. Ellen read about the cakes years ago and has made several of them so she was anxious to see where it all began. The Smith Island Cake is usually 8-10 thin layers separated by coatings of frosting. There are several flavors with yellow cake with chocolate icing being the most popular. Kevin had a slice of Red Velvet Cake which Ellen plans to make next Christmas!
We had a wonderful lunch at the Bayside Inn restaurant, visited the wonderful museum and then rented a golf cart to tour the small village of Ewell. Being on Smith Island was like taking a step back in time!
Tangier Island was first visited in 1608 by Captain John Smith who gave it its name and it was later settled in 1686. The beach on the south end of the island was the base of operations for the British fleet during the War of 1812. It was from there that the British burned Washington, D.C. and unsuccessfully attacked Fort McHenry in Baltimore during which our national anthem was written. The British erected Fort Albion which housed hundreds of African Americans who had gained freedom by escaping to the British. The site of the fort is now underwater.
Tangier Island has about twice as many residents as Smith Island and fishing, crabbing and oystering are the main source of income for the residents. It is known as the “soft crab capital’ of the nation. The island covers about 1.5 square miles and, like Smith Island, is shrinking. There are almost no cars on the island. Some of the residents leave their car in Crisfield and take the ferry over there to get supplies.
As the ferry boat was nearing the island we saw many huts that the fishermen use to store and clean their catches. Once we disembarked from the ferry, there were ladies on golf carts offering tours of the island. We took a tour from a lady that has lived on Tangier Island her whole life and then enjoyed walking around the island on our own. It was a joy to see this island and how the people live on it while, at the same time, it was sad to realize that it will not always be here and that many families who have lived on the island for generations will be forced to move once it becomes no longer inhabitable.
Back in Crisfield, we rented a golf cart from the marina to go to the grocery store. While we were shopping, a huge storm appeared out of nowhere. The manager of the grocery store was kind enough to take Ellen and our groceries back to the marina while Kevin took the golf cart back.
